Tuesday, November 18, 2008

Picking Coffee

Nicaragua's tourist industry does not focus exclusively on the development of high end resorts; or even eco-tourism... but is also developing rural and alternative tourism. For example, in Matagalpa we were told of a Coffee Cooperative that hosted tours of the coffee fields.

We drove up to the mountain village and for less than $10 each we were guided on a short hike up the mountain (with our English speaking guide pointing out the names and attributes of various plants along the way); taken to pick coffee for an hour or so and told more about coffee than I'd ever known before; (Did you know that the pulp surrounding the coffee bean inside the berry is quite sweet? I tasted it!) and served a plentiful, if plain, typical peasant lunch.
The skies opened up just as we sat down to lunch so we had a pleasant hour sitting on the porch, digesting our lunch and watching the rain pour down on the lush mountain valley.

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

Biblioteca Movil

San Juan del Sur's public library operates a mobile library that distributes books to local schools in the 'campo' (country). They invite volunteers to come along on these trips to visit with the kids; help with the crafts projects; assist the kids to pick out books; play sports with them etc.

I was pleased to have two very good friends from Vancouver visiting with me. I know B & G from library circles as they were both librarians. So... the 3 of us decided to spend a day going out with the mobile library. I really enjoyed the day, and hope I will make the time to do this more often. While it would be easy to find fault with the program: not enough books; the books are mostly in bad shape; not enough of the kids take advantage of the program; the teachers don't seem to support reading; the library staff don't seem to know anything about the books... the fact is it isstill doing SOMETHING... and the kids who DO use the service obviously appreciate it and enjoy it, and I believe will ultimately benefit immeasurably from it.

See: http://www.sjdsbiblioteca.org/

Miami Beach

In October I went back to Toronto for a brief visit with my daughter. My flight routing took me through Miami, so on my way back to Nicaragua I decided to spend a few days in Miami Beach. While the largest renascence of the fantastic art-deco architecture in Miami Beach began in the 70's and probably reached it's hey-day in the 90's, renovations continue, and we saw many buildings covered in scaffolding.


We didn't stay in the beautiful, yet slightly unreal, Miami Beach for our entire visit - but visited downtown, Little Havana, Coral Gables, the Cape Florida State Park, and drove through a variety of suburbs and neighborhoods. Miami has a bad reputation... but I kind of liked the place. Like many cities built on the ocean, it offers beautiful views and reasonable access to beaches... what's not to like?

For detailed information on the art-deco architecture of South Miami Beach see: http://www.miamibeach411.com/news/index.php?/news/comments/southbeach-artdeco/

Tuesday, November 04, 2008

The Rainy Season

I was sitting on my step watching the rain one day last month and thought it might be cool to try and capture it. Downpours like this were a pretty regular event for a couple of months, but right around the first of November, the clouds cleared and we have had pretty clear skies ever since. I guess the rainy season is over!

Friday, October 10, 2008

Mass murder in the kitchen

I just finished an ant mass-murder spree, and now feel like there are about 100 of them crawling on my body! Sometimes when I get up, if we haven't wiped down the counters really well, there will be a swarm of them on the counter... that was this morning. Always a few of them escape when I go after them with a sponge soaked in bleach and crawl up my arms - and then I feel them even when they're not there.

I promise to try and post a few more 'thoughtful' entries soon. Meanwhile...if you'd like to read a good rant on health care, check out John's latest - I'm present in the story.... but remain unnamed. :) http://existentiallyyours.blogspot.com/2008/10/healthy-debate.html



I found this pic through a google images search posted on another blog. If it's yours - let me know and I'll credit it or delete it.

Getting busy at the Galeria

Been busy this past month at the Galeria. Our September show of jewelry wasn't necessarily a financial hit, but it was a beautiful show and the staff were proud because it was the first show the gallery had done that was ready in time. The opening went off without any serious hitches and all in all we did a good job.

Our October show was scheduled for October 23, but just last week the artist canceled because some collector came and bought up his entire inventory! Well... good for him... not so good for us. I had done a fair amount of work on promotional materials for the show, and was pretty happy with the flyers etc. (see below)

Meanwhile, work continues on general promotional materials for the gallery, staff consultations, meeting artists, and planning future shows and programs. I've also been doing a bit of work for the arts festival that will be held in the Central Park on December 6.

We've been having some flooding problems, especially in the studio and in our storage cupboard. There is a major flaw in the roof design and pretty much the entire roof needs to be redone. So... management has decided to close the gallery for the next month while these repairs are conducted. This will give the staff a chance to get the administrative house in order (boy does it need it!) and for me to get the promotional materials finalized. Still tons to do!

Monday, September 15, 2008

Bailey gets measured


This Saturday the first 'farmers market' was held in the Sports Park. We picked up some fresh spinach, basil and green onions and unfortunately missed out on the fresh baked bread! (We'll get there earlier next week). One of the vendors had hung this scale, so I took the opportunity to see if Bailey had lost or gained any weight this last month or so. I switched him to a raw food diet and I haven't been too sure if he is getting enough to eat. Last week he ate a chicken head and neck 5 days, and some Mahi Mahi the other two. About every other day he gets some raw vegetables as well. My friend Kelly snapped this photo of him as I was weighing him. You can see the original shot (as well as some other really beautiful photos) on her blog at Picasso Dreams

Saturday, September 13, 2008

Yoga in the jungle

About 3 miles outside of town there is a 'yoga community'. We met the yoga instructor from El Camino del Sol and she invited us to come out to one of her evening classes, which we did. I have to say it is the first time that I have done yoga to the background sound of monkeys howling in the trees. I keep meaning to get back out there for another class (and this time bring my mosquito repellent!)

Picture courtesy of Nicayoga.com

Lago Masaya

On our trip to Juigalpa we were so single-minded about business that we regretfully did not stop to take any pictures, except for these shots of Lago Masaya which lays inside one of the craters of the massive Volcan Masaya.

Friday, September 12, 2008

Road Trip 2

Last week some business took us clear across the country! Well... almost. We went to a city on the other side of Lake Nicaragua called Juigalpa. The drive took 4.5 hours, so to arrive in time for our noon meeting we left San Juan just shortly after 6am. It was the first time I had been anywhere east of Managua, so I was very interested in seeing this new country. It was an absolutely beautiful drive through some of the prettiest valleys in the country. Juigalpa is the capital of Chontales province (actually called departments here) and Chontales is ranching country. Driving by all those pastures I did have to wonder how much jungle had been destroyed to feed our North American taste for beef.

We arrived in plenty of time for our meeting, so took a brief stroll around the central park and browsed some leather worker's stands. Having a coke at the small park cafe, we were approached by two precocious teenage girls who wanted us to help them with their English homework. I decided that's what I needed was a teenage girl to sit and talk to me for a couple of hours every week!

Map copyright GraphicMaps.com

Road Trip / Shopping in Nicaragua

I have been making a list of things I wanted for the house since I arrived, so the other week we set off in the new truck (wanted to see how it managed in 4th gear anyway)on a shopping trip to the Pueblos Blancos. This collection of villages lays in the volcanic highlands just to the south of Managua and about a 90 minute drive from San Juan. Each of the villages is known for a different artisania or handcraft. Our first stop was in San Juan del Oriente, which is one of the two locations in Nicaragua renowned for ceramic arts. (The other being up north in Jinotega province) I wanted to take a look at the 'art' ceramics; but I also wanted to buy some functional plant pots for our deck.












At one of the pottery workshops in San Juan del Oriente.


It was awful quiet in town and I think we were the only tourists I spotted during the entire hour that we wandered from one pottery workshop to the other. Bailey upset the natural dog order in town, as usual, and everywhere we were greeted by barking dogs either eager to meet him, or eager to eat him... I was never too sure which.

Some of the work is absolutely beautiful and the prices are unbelievable! A beautiful vase about 8 to 10 inches high might set you back $10, or $20 if you want a really intricate one!

Since we were ahead of schedule we took the time to go the extra hours drive to the southern outskirts of Managua as there were a couple of errands we wanted to do in the city as well. After lunch in Managua and a brief shopping foray at Comercial Central (where I happily stumbled upon an arts supply store) we headed back to the Pueblos Blancos and to the furniture town of Masatepe. Here we looked at lovely wicker sets of a couch and 2 chairs for the outlandish price of about $500 or a rattan set for about $300! Unfortunately all I needed, or have room for, was a simply folding deck chair which we use both inside and outside.

From Masatepe we headed back to Catarina to stop at one of the dozens of nurseries in this town of plants, to pick up some soil and a couple of flowering shrubs for the pots I had bought earlier.

All in all a very successful shopping trip!


Here are the pots I bought. I bought two of the one below right (they are about 2 feet in diameter) and have planted lettuce; basil and arugula. I have my fingers crossed that I'll be having fresh salad next month! All five pots set me back about $10 I think. The gardenia on the left is doing ok (although not flowering). The bouganvilla however has dropped all it's flowers and is losing it's leaves too. Anyone know anything about tropical gardening?




[While the Pueblos Blancos may have once shone white in the surrounding green jungle, as the houses and roads were all constructed from the chalky pale volcanic ash type soil of the area, today the century old buildings are painted in various colours and one has to do a little research to find out why in the world these towns are called the White Villages)

Tuesday, September 02, 2008

Local wildlife


The largest, most beautiful butterfly (or was it a moth?) flew into the house the other night. It's wingspan was about 6 inches across when it was in flight, and 4 inches or so when it landed. It landed on the top of the chair and I ran to get my camera and then proceeded to try and get a picture of it. The poor thing was panicking as it tried desperately to find it's way out of the house and would not sit still, making picture taking a bit of a challenge. Finally as it crawled pathetically around on the counter leaving wing dust behind and I was able to get a couple of not very good shots. Then, I turned my back for a minute and it simply disappeared. The next evening, however, we found it, half dead and damp, laying under our dish drainer. It limped out a bit... but I thought for sure it wouldn't survive. We decided to try and get it outside anyway... and sure enough it managed to fly into a nearby tree. About an hour later I went outside and was startled to have the same moth (I'm pretty sure it was the same moth because I've not seen another like it since) fly right by me. I think it was coming back to say 'hello, and thanks'.

Thursday, August 14, 2008

On being tickled (and not in 'that' way)

You know how sometimes you're just sitting reading, or sleeping, or doing not much of anything and you feel something tickle your foot or arm? You swear it is something crawling on your skin. You look down, and of course - it's nothing.

Well....9 times out of 10 down here when this happens to me... it is bloody something! This afternoon it was a large fuzzy caterpiller. I instantly exclaimed "Uh!!!" and shook my foot violently, flinging said innocent insect into the trees. Sometimes it's an ant, sometimes some other thing that I don't even want to know the name of ... large, black, with wings and really really ugly.

Fortunately, although I find having insects crawling on me to be startling and mostly very unpleasant.... I'm not really paranoid of insects, so these daily occurrences of being tickled do not give me bad dreams or anything. What they do do, is remind me that it has been a very long time since I lived anywhere near nature at all. When I was a kid growing up on a farm in the prairies... running into caterpillers, ants, and any number of other tiny and ugly creatures was pretty normal.

It's nice to be visited by nature again... I'm liking it. Just keep the little bastards out of my bed, please!

Canadians - 10, Rest of the World - 7

In what could have been called a 'grudge match', had it not been that it was actually requested by the reigning champions, Big Wave Dave's Cavemen beat the Bambu Blitzkrieg in San Juan del Sur's second ever street hockey game yesterday.

On Canada Day (July 1) this year, the first ever street hockey game was held at the Sports Park, with Big Wave Dave leading a team of Canadians to challenge a team of players from anywhere else in the world. You can read about this game (and how it came to be) in our local newsletter, Del Sur . You can also watch a video. Of course I was still in Canada and missed this historic event, but followed it closely via Del Sur as well as personal accounts.

The Canadian team took that initial game, and everyone had such a fabulous time that they decided not to wait an entire year for a re-match, but held a second game yesterday. Again the Canadian team out scored their rivals. One rumour has it that the Canadian team would never have done as well if it hadn't been for some creative recruiting. Posters were apparently placed in a local hospedaje that is favoured amoung young French Canadians. Said posters even (rumour has it) featured the Montreal Canadiens logo. Consequently, the Canadian team was well stacked with fit young men who had grown up playing hockey. The international challengers didn't really stand a chance, given that some of their team members had never before even seen a hockey game.

I have to say it was the most fun I've had watching a hockey game (albeit it was the first hockey game I've watched in years) in a very long time and the only time I have ever seen hockey played in bare feet and flipflops. See DanCesar.com for a great slideshow of the game.

Tuesday, August 12, 2008

Social Life in SJdS

Contrary to what one might think.... it actually seems easier to have an active social life in this small town than it is in Toronto. Trying to schedule social events in the two months I was in Toronto this summer was a minefield of "how about a week from Tuesday between 7:15 and 8:45?" and "I'm up to my eyeballs in work... give me a call near the end of the month and let's try and hook up."

Monday nights there is a choice of two movie nights in town. Both hosted by different local bars. Tuesday nights there is at least one regular poker night / pot-luck dinner that we have a standing invitation to. This Wednesday afternoon there is a road-hockey 'grudge' match between the Canadian team and the 'rest of the world' team. Wednesday night we are having a few friends over for dinner (and we didn't have to schedule 2 months in advance). Thursday night our friends at the Bambu Beach Club are hosting a party and showing of the Batman movie; and again on Friday night the Bambu Beach Club will hold a pool party to inaugurate their new swimming pool. (The only pool on the beach in all of San Juan!) By Saturday night we will be badly in need of a night off! But you never know what excitement could come up!


Serving cake at John's birthday party at the Bambu Beach Club.

Monday, August 11, 2008

Yo tengo un 'jeep'

Yes.... I bought a 'jeep'! Well, not really a jeep.... a 1996 Toyota 4x4 Landcruiser that is 'jeep style'. This picture is not actually my Landcruiser... but mine looks just like it! It's white and rugged and by all accounts has been well taken care of by both it's previous owners down here. Now, we can haul anything we darn well want, anywhere we darn well want. YeeHa!

Saturday, August 09, 2008

Travelling with Dog

Last year when I travelled with my teen daughter (see http://travellingwithteen.blogspot.com ) I opted to leave my Yorkshire terrier, Bailey, at home. Well, not exactly at home. I twisted my sister’s arm, played the ‘if you love me’ card and shipped him out to Edmonton to suffer a prairie winter living at her house.

This year, with a commitment to live in Nicaragua for at least 6 months, I opted to bring him with me. Given that Bailey only weighs 5 pounds, this endeavour is not especially onerous. Nevertheless, there were (at least theoretically) a few hurdles to jump.

Number one: Can he travel on the airplane? While dogs are welcome in the baggage compartment of most airlines, the kicker is that in almost all cases the airlines will not allow this if the temperature at any stop along the journey is projected to be above 80 degrees fahrenheit. Given that all possible routings had transfer spots far south of say, Arizona... that option was definitely out. Fortunately, TACA (the Costa Rican Airline) still allows small dogs on board aircraft, if their carriers can fit under the seat in front of you as carry-on luggage.

On the leg from Toronto to San Salvador, the crew was very flexible and did not blink an eye when I allowed Bailey to spend the majority of the trip sleeping quietly in my lap. Since he whined incessantly in his carry bag, I reckoned the passengers next to me would prefer him quietly sleeping than whining annoyingly. On the short 45 minute journey between San Salvador and Managua the on board crew were much stricter and insisted that he stay in his bag with the bag under the seat. Fortunately the flight was quite empty so I don’t think his whining annoyed that many people and the flight was short.

Number two: Will he be allowed into the country? Research (while conflicting information was found) indicated that I needed two things 1) proof that he had had a rabies shot at least 30 days prior to arrival in Nicaragua and 2) a signed health certificate (preferably translated into Spanish, which I did not do) issued no more than 10 days prior to arrival. I dutifully acquired both documents, but was (rather unsurprisingly) not asked by anyone to produce said documents.

Number three: What will I use as a ‘kennel’? Bailey is accustomed to spending his nights and all hours when I am not at home in his ‘kennel’. He feels safe in it and it keeps him from making a mess in the house. His traditional kennel is hard sided plastic and much to big to bring with me. I considered buying a collapsible kennel, but resisted spending another hunk of money on yet another dog accoutrement. My sister pointed out that we might as well use his travel bag as his permanent kennel, as while small it is big enough for him to curl up in comfortably. Not to mention the fact that Bailey has never been real good at house training and has even soiled his kennel from time to time... our thinking thus being he might stop this nasty habit if his kennel was so small he would not be able to escape from his mess.

The only problem I had with this solution was that his Sherpa Bag collapses in the centre making his ‘home’ a little on the claustrophobic side in my opinion. Using a few cut-to-fit dowels and some duct tape I had hoped to reinforce the top of the bag thus ensuring his ‘roof’ did not collapse in on him. Numerous attempts failed. Apparently about the only thing duct tape will not adhere to, is the inside of a Sherpa Bag. Finally, after arriving here and mulling the problem over I have apparently arrived at a solution. Still using duct tape - this time as a material from which to fashion and then sew into the bag little ‘pockets’ to hold each end of the dowel... I have managed to create a ‘kennel’ that he seems relatively happy with.

Number four: Will he be eaten by the half boxer / half pit-bull Nica dogs that seem to be the breed of choice around here? So far, I am happy to report, Bailey is intact. I keep him on leash when we are out, and by and large the Nica dogs seem to ignore him... of course he makes as much noise as possible every time anything, massive Nica dog or not, passes by our little house... scaring the bejesus out of the workmen, the caretaker’s children and everyone else.

By and large, Bailey is fitting in well. He certainly entertains everyone in town, as it would appear that the vast majority of Nicaraguans have seldom seen a dog so small. Yesterday we got caught in a tropical downpour and both got completely drenched. He looked like the quintessential drowned rat with ears and garnered numerous chuckles from the wise locals taking shelter under every eave and porch as we passed by.

He is, as always, an endless source of amusement to me as well. I especially enjoy watching him jump back from anything that smells different to what he is used to (which, of course, is almost everything). The other day he encountered a large plastic soda bottle, as part of the typical flotsam and jetsam washed ashore by the tide, and was completely flummoxed. Apparently he had never met a soda bottle that smelled like the sea before and was sure it was an alien creature to be approached with extreme caution and then jumped away from quickly before it might rise up to attack him.

Similarly, two nights ago he appeared to discover an insect that was also worthy of extreme suspicion as he repeatedly attempted to sniff it, and jump away from it in fear. Last night he entertained us with his repeated attempts to capture a crab (about 2 inches in diameter) that had somehow found its way all the way from the sea to the top of our hill! I imagine we are in for a few weeks of similar amusement as both Bailey and I adapt to our new home.

Wednesday, August 06, 2008

New Digs

It has been a long time since I have settled in to a new home. I lived in my last house for almost 7 years, which is the longest I've lived in any house since I left my parent's home over 30 years ago.

My new home is a rental, and it is unlikely that I will remain here for anywhere near 7 years, but nevertheless I will endeavour to make it home. It is not hard to feel at peace here... we live high on the hill overlooking the bay of San Juan del Sur on the Pacific coast of Nicaragua. While it is a hard climb up the hill to get to, the wooded setting and lovely view of the bay certainly make the effort well worth it. During the day the sight of white boats bobbing in the blue waters against a backdrop of green hills is a better view than any art I could hang on my walls, and at night the sound of the waves crashing far below lulls me better than any musical composition could.

The house itself lies in a small development of 9 houses, each a fair distance from one another. While small, it is comfortable and pleasant and our spacious deck is a room of it's own. The entire building is about 16ft wide and 18 ft long and is divided into two halves... one contains the bedroom and bathroom, while the other houses the kitchen and living area. I could complain of the lack of comfortable lounging furniture... but instead I think I will just go out and buy a nice deck chair that we can use both inside and out and will provide a good resting place from which to watch TV. We already have a classic Nicaraguan rocking chair; table and four chairs and a desk.

In the coming weeks I also hope to buy a number of planting pots for our deck in which to plant herbs and leafy greens (lettuce, arugula, spinach, etc.) as they are exceedingly difficult to find in the market here.

Unfortunately all this shopping is going to be a tad difficult as the road to our house is so steep it is all but impassible to anything other than a 4 by 4; and we do not own any vehicle at all.... but I am sure we will work something out. Our next project is to get a large bottle of drinking water up here; and to find a carpenter to build me some frames upon which to stretch canvas, as I am eager to do some painting!

Stay tuned, for more adventures from Casa Pia, Nico Vale, San Jual del Sur.


The front door of "Casa Pia"

Monday, July 21, 2008

Beautiful People

The "Lonely Planet Guide to Nicaragua" describes the unique cultural mix of peoples that make up what are now known as 'Nicaraguans'. Indigenous, African and European cultures are represented. Seven different indigenous cultures are identified and at least 4 different European nations have contributed to the population. After describing all these cultures and their historical roots in Nicaragua the Lonely Planet writer goes on to say: "Mix all that together, simmer for a few hundred years, and you get an uncommonly good-looking people who consider racism a bit silly." I sure can't argue too much with this description, and a recent photo album on the website: DanCesar.com (which is owned and maintained by my friends: Dan and Cesar) certainly documents the beauty of the Nicaraguan people. Check out some wonderful photos of the kids of San Juan del Sur at their recent baseball camp, and see if you don't agree: Baseball Camp In SJDS, Nicaragua

photo credit: Cesar Paniamogan, Jr© 2008

Friday, July 11, 2008

The monster raises it's ugly head (again)

Some mistakes seem never to be behind me, but keep raising their ugly heads like the science fiction monster that refuses to die.

I have been separated from my last 'mistake' for over 5 years now, and legally divorced for 15 months. This troubled union dissolved quite effectively on a late spring evening I would really rather forget, but am not allowed to. For long term readers of this blog (both of you) you will remember that it was an act of violence that ended the marriage and that some time later my estranged husband launched a claim for damages against me and the police in relation to that evening. Apparently he felt that both myself and the police had unnecessarily caused him pain for which we should be made to pay.

Strangely, and amusingly (in a very twisted way) his own claim against us included what he seemed to believe was a 'defense' of his behavior that evening, in which he stated:
  • Following the second assault on his person by [me] {assault described as a 'violent and painful slap to his face without warning'}, the Plaintiff {that's him} gently restrained his aggressor {that's me}, placed her on the bed and advised her in a matter-of-fact manner that he could break her neck if he wanted to. [Me] began screaming loudly in an effort to embarrass the Plaintiff and draw attention to herself. Accordingly, the Plaintiff placed a pillow over her mouth to prevent her screaming as it was quite late at night.
The fact that placing a pillow over someone's face also impedes their breathing, seems to be something he was not aware of.

As part of the final divorce settlement he was convinced to sign a release, dropping me in this claim for damages, but apparently has proceeded with his claim against the police. How do I know this? Well.... unfortunately this month I received a letter from his lawyer.

According to his lawyer's letter they "understand that some time ago, [I] confirmed with [my mistake] that [I] would assist in his action against the police." The letter goes on to ask me to please contact them to arrange to visit with them to make a statement.

Just to be clear... I have absolutely no recollection of ever saying I would assist him... and if I did...... well, all I can say is, it must have been under duress.

Receiving this request for a meeting was startling to say the least... other emotions that I experienced (and continue to experience) include horror, amusement, and amazement. Mostly though, I am dismayed by having to re-visit an episode in my life that I had hoped was closed, packaged, and filed completely in my past.

Some have suggested that this man suffers from borderline personality disorder and/or narcissistic personality disorder. I don't know. I don't much care. I do believe this:

Anyone who first threatens my life (both verbally and physically); then attempts to sue me for damages; and THEN asks for my assistance (thinking that there is actually something I could, even if I was willing to, say that could assist him)... is not living in the same reality as most of us.

Will this 'monster' of a mistake of mine, ever be laid to rest?